Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca was ronduit teleurgesteld door deze proeverij in 2009, en noemde het feit dat de wijnmakers niet aangaven hoe moeilijk de vintage was als een reden voor deze 'sombere' vertoning.
‘Weinig jaren 2009 rechtvaardigden optimisme over hun lange levensduur, en de meeste producenten spraken over 2009 als een vintage voor drinken op korte termijn’
Het jaar 2009 van Barolo zal de consument confronteren met enkele harde waarheden en enkele harde wijnen. Ik heb in mei meer dan 200 voorbeelden van Barolo 2009 geproefd bij Nebbiolo Prima in Alba. De meeste wijnen die gedurende de vijf dagen van het evenement werden aangeboden, misten niet alleen de klassieke Nebbiolo-kleur, maar vertoonden bijna geen Nebbiolo-aroma's of -smaken.
Ik hou van Barolo, en ik respecteer en bewonder veel van zijn producenten vanwege hun toewijding en de helderheid van hun visie. Toch moet ik zeggen dat in deze vintage de prestaties van velen van hen niet simpelweg ontbraken, het was somber.
Er waren natuurlijk uitzonderingen: verschillende producenten - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, voor sommigen - bleken behoorlijk drinkbare Barolo. Een paar - met name Pio Cesare en Massolino-Vigna Rionda - hebben zelfs vertrouwen in het verouderingspotentieel van hun wijn. Die mening werd vaak herhaald door handelaren en kopers, die een week eerder dan journalisten een selectie van deze wijnen proefden, en bij de producenten (niet blind). Maar naar mijn smaak - en naar de mening van veel journalisten die ik heb gesproken - lijken de meeste Barolo-makers de moeilijkheidsgraad van deze vintage ernstig te hebben onderschat. Er waren maar weinig 2009's die optimisme over hun lange levensduur rechtvaardigden, en de meeste producenten spraken over 2009 als een vintage voor drinken op de korte termijn.
Giacomo Conterno, van de wijnmakerij Aldo Conterno in de gemeente Monforte, was een van de meest uitgesproken producenten. Hij zei: ‘2009 was een wijnbouwersjaar. Eind augustus waren sommige [Nebbiolo] -stokken al bijna rijp, en sommige waren volledig onrijp - bijna 30 dagen verschil tussen hen. Wat je daaraan deed, bepaalde wat voor soort wijn je maakte. 'De doorgaans positieve beoordeling van de Consorzio van de oogst dit jaar is erg behoedzaam:
'De vintage van 2009 zal ook herinnerd worden vanwege zijn onregelmatige rijpingspatroon ... In termen van technologische rijping kan de vintage geplaatst worden tussen 2003 en 2007 ... Wat betreft de fenolische rijping ... de gegevens gevonden in de druiven waren vergelijkbaar met die van 2003 ... in deze oogst werden de resultaten niet altijd verbeterd door de oogst uit te stellen. '
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Geschreven door Tom Maresca
Interessante Artikelen
