Spaanse amforen, bekend als tinajas, hebben het overgenomen van barriques bij de wijnmakerij van Elisabetta Foradori in Trentino
- Hoogtepunten
- Langgelezen wijnartikelen
- Tijdschrift: uitgave mei 2018
Simon Woolf onderzoekt meldingen van een contrarevolutie in Italiaanse wijnkelders ...
Er is een kort maar dramatisch moment in de film van Paolo Casalis uit 2014 Barolo Boys: The Story of a Revolution wanneer wijnmaker Elio Altare een kettingzaag meeneemt naar een imposante lijn botti (traditionele grote eikenhouten vaten) die in de kelder van zijn familie staan.
Zijn rituele vernietiging van deze eerbiedwaardige vaten, uitgevoerd in 1983, had een praktisch doel: ruimte maken voor nieuw aangekochte, kleinere Franse eikenhouten barriques. Maar de krachtige symboliek was duidelijk - de zogenaamd stinkende, in verval geraakte botti vertegenwoordigde de oude orde. Lijnen van perfecte, nieuw samengestelde barriques gaven een duidelijke boodschap van moderniteit en stijl.
Scroll naar beneden om Woolfs selectie Italiaanse wijnen te zien, gemaakt zonder eikenhout
Wat in 1983 hypermodern leek, was eind jaren negentig de rigueur geworden voor prestigieuze Italiaanse wijnhuizen. Maar meer recentelijk is de doorslaggevende eiken streling van de barrique uit de gratie geraakt, van Friuli in het noordoosten tot Sicilië in het zuiden en alle punten daartussenin.
De Italiaanse wijnmakers schakelen steeds meer over op alternatieve materialen en vaten voor fermentatie en veroudering, variërend van geheimzinnig tot ronduit.
Waar ooit barriques stonden, kunnen nu amforen, Georgische qvevris, betonnen eieren of grote acacia-vaten zijn. Is dit slechts de cyclische maling van de loopband van de mode, of maakt het deel uit van een meer beslissende beweging naar meer authenticiteit en expressie?
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Woolf's proefnotities en scores voor een selectie Italiaanse wijnen gemaakt zonder eikenhout:
Interessante Artikelen
